Exfoliation

Hi Besties!

Because we’re at the end of the summer season, I want to briefly discuss exfoliation. This word is often used when we’re talking about getting results in skincare, but how much do we understand what it means, and the differences between the results and therapies for different methods?

For my fellow estheticians and our colleagues in dermatology, we get it, we live for skincare, but with so much information available online and so many people clamoring for treatments, not every practitioner is breaking down the processes for each. We use words like enzymes, acids, peptides, microdermabrasion, resurfacing, peel and so forth when we talk about the end result.

Skin care divas and devotees need to be educated as to how these therapies work so they can choose the best type of therapy for their skin type, their desired results, and so they can maintain their desired results.

First let’s talk about the different types of exfoliation- there aren’t that many. Enzymatic, chemical (acid), mechanical, and lazer. They’re all powerful and can produce amazing results, but not every skin type can tolerate every method of exfoliation, and everyone is different. Some conditions can be very stubborn, some can be very sensitive, and for certain conditions such as eczema, exfoliation may not be appropriate in any form.

Next we must understand what contraindications are, and what happens if we get a wrong treatments at a wrong time because those results can be devastating. I’ve seen people with hyperpigmented stripes, bruises, scabs, scars, bald spots, dark spots, light spots on their face. On their beautiful face. Please understand that modern treatments and therapies are actually quite powerful and effective, most are designed as a series of treatments to be completed over a prescribed period of time. This is to aid the healing process and minimize downtime. Results must be maintained by observing a very regular routine of self care, we have to commit to ourselves if we want those results.

Contraindications are any conditions that would cause a complication with a treatment or therapy, such as an allergy to an ingredient.

Common contraindications can be, but are not limited to:

Allergies – to ingredients or equipment are common

Use of certain drugs – blood thinners, accutane, recent peels or treatments

Pacemakers

Autoimmune diseases

Diabetes

Pregnancy.

Being contraindicated for a certain ingredient or treatment does not make a person contraindicated from all products and therapies, and it’s not hard to work around such factors. For example, if I have a client who is allergic to aspirin, I’m keeping the salicylic acid away from them. If they’re allergic to pineapple, no bromelaine enzyme. Taking blood thinners? No extractions, no chemicals, no abrasives, nothing but the most gentle of touches that skin will result in the most hideous bruising.

If we have a skin that has been exposed to a lot of sun and wind, or is thickened and tough, it will take some extra care to get through the corneum so that products can be effective, without causing irritation. If we have a skin with an active condition such as acne or rosacea, we may need to get some activity calmed down before we start exfoliating, or exfoliate more gently than we might if we were looking at a situation with scarring, or general congestion, or a skin type that has had many treatments.

Let’s discuss the different methods of exfoliation, at the most basic levels, starting with enzymatic. Enzymes are little chemical catalysts that cause other things to happen, and one of the things they do in skincare is break down keratin, the proteins that skin is made of, and digest it. One reason we like it in skincare is because it’s usually pretty safe for everyone because enzymes only break down only dead, dry skin cells and leave plump, juicy cells alone. Enzymes are usually derived from plant sources, so they’re sustainable, and there are a shocking number of things in every one of our kitchens right now that contain enzymes that we can use in skincare, especially fruits. By digesting the deadest of the skin cells on our bodies, enzymes brighten and refresh the skin. They enhance product penetration, and stimulate cell turnover.

Acids are found in a million things, in fact Glycolic acid comes from sugar. Lactic acid from milk, Malic acid from apples, Tartaric acid from grapes, and Mandelic acid from almonds are the most commonly used today, but there are other acids, including chemicals such as Phenol, that are very strong and should only be administered in a clinical environment by an experienced and reputable professional. Even a dilute solution of these substances can cause burns and scarring.

Acids work by dissolving the lipid compounds that hold our skin cells together. When those bonds are dissolved, the outer layers of skin come free and slough off. Different acids have specialties, some are more hydrating, some more brightening, but they all lighten and brighten and stimulate cell turnover in the skin. When using acids to exfoliate the skin, care must be taken to protect the skin at all times, from UV light, pollution, infection, contaminants, and TEWLs. This is best achieved by using a moisturizer appropriate to skin type, and something with SPF during the day. Acids are the work horses of skin care, which is why we find them in washes, serums, lotions, moisturizers, toners, masks, and targeted treatments, there’s an acid for almost everyone.

Mechanical exfoliation includes microdermabrasion, and dermaplaning, these treatments work by physically scraping or sloughing skin using a medium- Diamond tips, medical grade silica, scalpel, washcloths or pads, scrubs using beads or ground seeds or shells are all mechanical or physical exfoliation techniques. These techniques can be particularly effective for actinic damage, or old scars by scraping off stubborn layers of dehydrated skin buildup, and stimulating the tissue beneath a thickened corneum. These methods are not suitable for all skin types, however. Dry skin, sensitive or sensitized skin, and skin that is otherwise contraindicated should not use scrubs or abrasive methods of exfoliation as these methods tend to exacerbate dryness and irritation. If using such a method on dry skin, take care to keep skin protected with an occlusive moisturizer.

Lastly we have Laser resurfacing. This is an extreme exfoliation that uses the power of concentrated light to evaporate the top layers of the skin to a controlled depth. There are many advantages to laser resurfacing- it’s fast and incredibly effective. The risks for irritation and infection are reduced as the instrument does not come into contact with the skin, and there are no ingredients to go bad. The downside is really the cost, as this therapy is limited to medical esthetics and plastic surgery centers making it expensive, but this is the top shelf for exfoliating treatments.

Whichever method you prefer, make sure you research the ingredients and the company before using. Avoid diverted products which can often be found on resale sites at a discount, but these products have been diluted with whatever the seller found most expedient causing results that can be unexpected and unpleasant. Use real products, professional if you can afford it, and try to not be taken in by catchy names and packaging. Some of the best products out there invest in the products, not the packaging and marketing, but that doesn’t mean they’re not as good as the flashy, spendy stuff.

It is not necessary to peel your face off, spend buckets of money, or torture yourself for results however, as time and consistency can be almost as powerful at maintaining our lovely visages as a medical or targeted treatment. Be sure to remove all makeup, SPF, etc. before washing your face. Wse a mild cleanser with AHAs, moisturize every day and every night, use SPF every day, and results will appear over several weeks. Consistency is key here, make it a habit, a ritual, whatever you need to, but no fix is ever as effective as prevention, and even the fixes must be maintained rigorously.

What do you think about exfoliation? I chose this topic because it’s getting time to blast off the summer crusties and get ready for fall. This is such a brief discussion on an estheticians favorite topic, professionals and enthusiasts, what things have missed here?